In the modern, illegal consumption of ortolan, what added meaning might the head covering conceal?
Answer
The evidence of a criminal act
When the practice of consuming ortolan persists illegally today, the significance of draping the napkin over the head gains an additional layer beyond hiding messiness or aroma. Since hunting and serving the protected birds are criminal acts, the physical act of consuming the bird becomes evidence of law-breaking. The cloth, therefore, serves the practical purpose of concealing the consumption itself—the visual proof that someone is engaging in the illegal hunting and serving of a protected species. This imbues the secretive ritual with an added element of risk and exclusivity that was not present when it was merely a high-society indulgence.

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